Authentic Lesvos on a plate

My island is an entire country of its own. It bears something great and grand. It reserves liveliness, a stress-free fast pace with no sign of that slow, relaxed motion of the small aegean islands. Be prepared to eat well everywhere. Even at the most remote little village, you may find a delicious meze and a glass of ouzo.

I arrive at the main town. I start strolling around it. On the wharf, at the port, I explore the narrow alleyways all around, the market, and I reach the starting point. The town and the entire island is imbued with the smell of the angels’ local drink. It is called ouzo and goes with everything. Down town and all year long I buy tsoureki at Maskotitsa (+30 22510 47700, maskwtitsa.gr). It smells sweet of mahleb, cardamom and mastic. I like its doughiness and moisture; they’re just the right amount. The grocery store of Skopelitis (+30 22510 26639) at Bas Fanar fills my basket with olives, local legumes, ladotiri cheese from Mytilene and Adalis’ yogurt of Mantamados in the “gragouda” (clay pot). I stop by Ermis’ taverna (+30 22510 26232) for the first ouzo of the day. The environment takes you back to other eras preserving its authenticity as an old coffee shop with its leather sofas and wooden carved mirrors. I wouldn’t miss it for the world. Its dried green pea fava soaked in local olive oil and the cured meats simply whet my appetite. For the main meal I choose Refenes in Apano Skala (+30 22510 55701), next to the tarsanas (shipyard) and behind the Castle of Gatelouzi. Right across, there it is, Asia Minor. Here you can taste the island’s best raw material. I was mesmerised by a white seabream grilled on excellent olive wood coal. The zucchini, green beans and collard taste as if drizzled with honey. Don’t miss the most sensual, freshly-cured mackerel in the universe. Not to mention the salted papalina –the sardine found in Kalloni Bay. I simply surrender to the best Greek sushi ever! In summer, at Pyrgi (+30 22510 42875) at Geras Bay, I indulge in the fish of the bay, the fava beans with olive and oregano, and the garden vegetables.